American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, South Platte Region

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

South Platte Region. On Big Rock Candy Mountain, an 11-pitch face climb, Childhood’s End (IV, 5.11d), was put up by Eric Winkleman, Ken Trout and Brian Hansen. The climb features a nearly vertical crux headwall (pitch 7) that was pre-protected by a 10-bolt ladder. The rest of the climb was drilled free, from stances with two 5.10d and one 5.10a face pitches. Childhood’s End is right of Fields Of Dreams and is highly recommended over the older route. The latter has some loose rock. On the Slab (right of the Bishop), Sea Of Holes ( 150 feet, 5.11a) was climbed by Trout, Hansen, Tom Vanco and Paul Frank. This bolt-protected face climb ascends a steep arête and is a direct start to Topographic Oceans. A hook was used to drill one bolt. On the Bucksnort slabs, right of Classic Dihedral, Trout, Robby Baker and Vanco put in Slippery When Wet (150 feet, 5.11b). The crux pitch was top-roped before leading. One bolt was placed on abseil, while the rest were placed on lead. Left of Classic Dihedral, Scott Reynolds and I climbed Good, Bad and The Ugly (150 feet, 5.12a). Prior to our ascent, an old aid ladder of five rivets ascended the first pitch. The rivets were crowbarred out after they were used for aid to place two good protection bolts. In Eleven Mile Canyon, several short hard climbs of mentionable quality were added in 1984. On the Sports Crag, D’Antonio & Peter Gallagher climbed Ecstasy And Wise Guys (40 feet, 5.11X), a diagonal seam and face left of Moonage Daydream. The climb was led on sight with poor nut protection. Left of Leaner, D’Antonio and Frank Hill (visiting British climber) climbed The Desmond Dynamo (40 feet, 5.12a) ascending a very overhanging wall. Right of Leaner, Kevin Lindorff (visiting Australian climber) and D’Antonio climbed Concrete Slippers (60 feet 5.10d R), a steep face with two bolts (one drilled hanging by a hook). A couple of miles up the road from the Sports Crag a short cliff easily visible from the road was picked for short plums. Bob D’Antonio and Lindorff climbed Skid Marks (50 feet, 5.11a), which ascends a vertical arête with two bolts. D’Antonio, Lindorff and Hill climbed Captain Codpiece (70 feet, 5.1lc), a thin strenuous crack. Immediately right, Bob Murray top-roped a difficult face climb at 5.12+ . Less than a mile up the road, the thin crack, Bruised, But Not Battered (35 feet, 5.12a), was climbed by D’Antonio and Chris Hill.

Mark Rolofson, Unaffiliated

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