American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming–Wind River Range, Mount Nystrom, East Peak, South Face and Southeast Buttress

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Mount Nystrom, East Peak, South Face and Southeast Buttress. In September 1981 Tenny Canon, Gleed Toombs and I made a new climb in the impressive Nystrom cirque, near Sweetwater Gap. We climbed the south face, a fine route on cracks and steep slab to the summit of the east peak. (Grade II, 5.7.). Kirt Cozzens and I returned to the area in July 1984 to climb the impressive buttress rising from the grassy valley at the foot of the east face. The route climbs cracks and ramps on the reddish lower face to the buttress crest, then moves through a notch to begin the upper section pitches, which look almost improbable from below. The route climbs the airy south edge of the buttress here, taking a zigzag line on very steep rock with just sufficient chickenheads to make the route feasible. This is a delightful climb on superb rock in a beautiful setting. (Grade III, 5.9.)

Fred Beckey

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.