American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California–Yosemite, Tuolumne Meadows, 1984

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Tuolumne Meadows, 1984. Footnote (5.10) is a bolted pitch climbed by Phil Bard just left of Table of Contents, leading to Hermaphrodite Flake. Great White Arête is 5.10 - and climbs the outside comer just right of the Great White Book, leading to Mosquito; it was done by Kurt Smith and John Bachar. Steve Gerberding and Dave Gengston climbed Flipper (5.10 - ), a pitch just right of Vicious Thing. Is Paris Burning is a difficult (5.11) two-pitch climb right of Too Thin to Clip In, done by Dave Count and Rob Settlemeyer. Just right of this is Go For the Gold, which starts at the same place as Realm of the Absurd, and goes up and left. On the second pitch, one can follow the bolts directly, or stay left of them (easier). Al Swanson and Vaino Kodas climbed it and it is 5.10 or 5.11, depending on which way you go. Happy Hour (5.10 - ) is a one-pitch route just left of Vice Gripped, done by Bruce Brossman and me. On Low Profile Dome, Roy Galvan climbed Matzoh Balls, a 5.7 route between Lotsa Balls and Hurricane Betsey. Bill Myers and Smith climbed two routes on North Whizz Dome to the right of Cuckoo’s Nest, Ease on to it (5.10), and Nob Roulette (5.10 - ). Murder by Numbers (5.11-) climbs the face just right of Barbary Coast on Hammer Dome, done by Count and Settlemeyer. The same pair also did Tin Pan Alley which starts with the first moves of Shadow of Doubt, then moves left into more difficult (5.11) terrain. Also on that dome, Ron Kauk free-climbed past the aid bolts at the start of Mystery Achievement (5.12). On Lava Dome, Bachar and Mike Lechlinski climbed Flash, a 5.11 climb left of Movement in Camouflage. On the right side of the dome, Bachar teamed up with Tom Herbert to establish the Bachar-Herbert Route (5.10 - ). On Daff Dome, Cowabunga (5.12) is the right-hand roof crack which exits partway up Bearded Clam, done by Smith and Steve Schneider. Right of this, Smith led Into the Void (5.11), formerly a top-rope problem. Borderline is the crack which forms the left margin of the Fingertips slab, climbed by Don Reid and me (5.9). To the right of Facelift are three cracks. Pebbles and Bamm Bamm is the left crack and Said and Done is the center one, both routes are 5.10- and meet about 60 feet up; first-ascent parties are unknown. The right crack goes through an overhanging bulge protected by a bolt. This is Bruce Proof Roof (5.11 - ), done by Lechlinski. On Lembert Dome, The Dude (5.10 - ), ascends the head-wall above the end of the Beginner’s Route, done by Swanson and Josh Starr. Further left, Swanson and Kodas climbed Cutting Edge, which consists of three moderate pitches leading to the steep wall to the right of Direct Northwest Face (5.11 - ). Between Neophyte and Where the Action Is, Shari Schubot and I climbed Big Dog Hammer (5.9). On Puppy Dome, Achilles takes the ramp left of Do or Fly. Bog Gaines climbed this 5.10 route. Four new routes were done on the Whale’s Back last year. Ice-Ten (5.10 + ) is the face just right of Sole on Ice, done by Bengston and me. Three more routes were done to the right of Looking Glass. From left to right they are Math of the Pastor (5.11, Smith and Dave Hatchett), Fasttrack (5.11, Schneider and Myers) and Defender of the Faith (5.11+) also done by Smith and Hatchett. Burning Down the House was climbed by Smith and Schneider and ascends the face between Always Arches and Inverted Staircase on Fairview Dome (IV, 5.11 + ). On Lamb Dome, Tom Higgins and Pat Ament climbed Higgy Stardust (5.9), a two-pitch route right of Nerve Wrack Point. Further right, Smith, Schubot and I climbed Lampoon (5.9 + ), two pitches to the left of Little Sheba. Four routes were done on the previously unclimbed wall just west of the descent gully from Marioulumne Dome (right of the Sharkey’s End/Nazgul wall). From left to right they are The Incredible Hunk (5.8, Gerberding, Bengston and me), Working for Peanuts (5.10-, Bard and me), Runaway (5.9, Bard and me) and Rock Vixen (5.7, Schubot, Cathy Larson and me). On Medlicott Dome, two routes were done on the buttress just right of the North Gully. Chicken Little (5.9 + ) starts in a crack, then moves left and stays near the left margin of the buttress for four pitches. It was climbed by Barton and me. The same pair teamed up with Jack Roberts to climb Pussy Paws (5.10) which starts at the same spot, but stays to the right of the preceding route. Fun House is a pleasant five-pitch 5.7 climb between Piss Easy and Middling, done by Bengston, Gerberding and me. Virgin Dome is the short wall just right of the Sticks and Stones cliff. Four routes were done here, all by Smith and Myers: Virgin Killer (5.11- ), Virgin Testimony (5.11 + ), Ho Charlies (5.10) and No Bones (5.11). Finally, Reid and Alan Roberts climbed two cracks on the headwall above Pennyroyal Arches, Disorderly Conduct (5.10 - ), and Resisting Arrest (5.11-).

Alan Bartlett

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