American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California–Sierra Nevada, Moro Rock, Levity's End

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Moro Rock, Levity’s End. In January, Dave Hickey, Ken Aubrey and I climbed this route which ascends the central part of the west face of this rock. High on the face is a huge right-facing roof-corner; the route starts directly below this feature. The first pitch has one bolt and leads to a two-bolt anchor. From here, it is necessary to move the belay up and left about 30 feet. Another long pitch of face climbing leads to the right side of a walk-on walk-off ledge known as Condor Watch. Three more pitches, involving face, ramps and wide cracks, lead to a stance directly below the aforementioned roof-comer. The crack out the roof, though perfectly hand-sized, still proved to be the crux of the climb. Approaching the climb involved several long rappels, starting in the vicinity of the Condor Watch. A topo of this and other routes in the area are available at the Lodgepole Visitor Center. (III, 5.10 or 5.11.)

Edwin C. Joe, Stonemasher Climbing Club

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