American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington-Cascade Mountains, Various Climbs in the Northern Cascades

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Various Climbs in the Northern Cascades. This north buttress of Amphitheater Mountain lies just east of the middle finger buttress on the broad north face. On July 20, 1983, Mike Carville and I climbed it, following a line on the right side. Obvious cracks led up the center on good rock and finished with an overhanging off-width crack (Grade III, 5.9). Rooster Finch is one of two spires just above the Colchuck-Dragontail Col. On June 13 Stephen Buchwalder, Alex Sebastian and I completed a two-pitch climb on the west face. The climbing started low on the right side and followed a single crack on the second pitch to the summit (Grade I, 5.8). At the south end of Snagtooth Ridge is the fairly solid Big Snagtooth with two prominent buttresses dominating the east face. On June 30 Bob Vreeland and I climbed three pitches up the right buttress. Gaining a big ledge, we then traversed a pitch to the left and did three more pitches up the center of the east face, skirting an enormous chimney on its left (Grade III, 5.10). On July 18 Kevin Beltz and I completed a new route on the left side of the south face of Tomahawk. Cracks and ramps diagonal up and right and reach the summit in four pitches (Grade II, 5.8). On the left side of the south face of Half Moon and directly below the enormous gendarme on the west ridge is a system of cracks and ramps that Beltz and I climbed on July 20. Except for the very bottom, the rock is good and the three-pitch climb finishes on the west ridge on the east side of the gendarme (Grade II, 5.9). At four P.M. on July 27 Jeff Thomas pointed up a vertical dihedral on Big Kangaroo ’s south face which was catching the late-afternoon light. I agreed to his scheme and at ten P.M. we arrived at the top of the 900-foot face in total darkness after climbing eight pitches, three of which were 5.10. We stumbled down talus and snowfields. The dihedral lies between the 1967 south-face route and the southeast buttress (Grade III, 5.10, A. 1). On July 28, although we were still tired from the night before, Jeff and Bill Thomas and I completed a six-pitch route up the southeast buttress of Big Kangaroo. It followed crack systems on the left side of a huge slot high on the buttress. The rock quality was variable (Grade III, 5.9).

Alan Kearney

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