American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington-Cascade Mountains, Mesahchie Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Mesahchie Peak. This peak has received increasing attention in the past few years. On July 29, 1978, Stimson Bullit and Kjell Gustafson climbed the east ridge. Subsequent parties have climbed variations on the ridge and the adjacent southeast gullies. The ridge is class 4; the gullies, class 3. (Grade II.) On August 26, 1979, Dave Seman climbed the upper northeast ridge. He reached the route by crossing the Mesahchie Glacier from its eastern col, then climbing through the icefall and working right onto the crest. From here the ridge is mostly class 3 with 200 feet of easy class 5. The climb is Grade II, with good rock. On August 21, 1982, Mickey Schurr and Mike Brown climbed the complete northeast ridge. Long and very exposed, the climb required 9½ hours from low on the glacier. On September 23, 1984, my brother Carl and I climbed a variation of the east-ridge route. From the Mesahchie Glacier, we climbed the icefall and couloir to the upper part of the ridge, then continued on the crest to the summit. An enjoyable ice and rock climb. (Grade II-III.)

Lowell Skoog

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