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North America, United States, Alaska, Twaharpies Peaks, Wrangell Mountains

Twaharpies Peaks, Wrangell Mountains. We eight Poles flew from McCarthy to the Glacier Creek landing on the Chitistone River. We had an airdrop on the upper part of the Twaharpies Glacier at 6000 feet, where we set up Base Camp. Our main climbs were on three unnamed and previously unclimbed peaks. On June 17 Andrzej Paulo, Kazimierz J. Rusiecki, Jan Serafin and Andrzej Sobelewski climbed P 9600, northeast of Base Camp via a secondary ridge which descends southward to the upper Twaharpies Glacier. On June 25 Paulo, Rusiecki and Sarafin ascended P 11,720 in the Twaharpies Ridge, about 1.8 miles west of Celeno Peak, via the prominent north-northwest spur. The 5000-foot spur seems to be the only avalanche-free zone on the whole northwest wall of the Twaharpies. That same day, Stanislaw Czerwinski, Grzegorz Szarejko and I climbed from the northeast P 7205, south of the middle part of the Twaharpies Glacier. The snow and weather conditions during June were most unfavorable and the snow did not harden at night. April to mid-May would have been better.

Andrzej Piekarczyk, Klub Wysokogórski Polska, Warszawa