North America, United States, Alaska, P 9420, P9900, P 10,200 and Mount Hess, Southeast Ridge, Hayes Range

Publication Year: 1985.

P 9420, P 9900, P 10,200 and Mount Hess, Southeast Ridge, Hayes Range. Roman Dial, Matt Van Enkevort, Martin Leonard and Chuck Comstock climbed P 9420 in January. The first two then climbed P 9900 and P 10,200. These three first ascents all lie east of Deborah and Hess. The weather was very cold and some suffered from frostbite. In May, Dial returned with Carl Tobin and climbed the last unclimbed ridge, the southeast, of Mount Hess. Although they had taken only four days of food, they took nine days on the climb. They first climbed 2000 feet of 45° to 70° ice to the col between P 10,200 and Hess. After climbing double-cornices and mixed terrain, they bivouacked in an ice cave under a cornice on a gendarme, where they were trapped by the weather for five days. More rock, and some aid on cornices, led to another bivouac. Double cornices, knife-edged ridge and steep rock of great difficulty took them to the summit, where they had to bivouac again. They descended the north ridge but had to climb back to Base Camp on the West Fork Glacier.