American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, P 10,206, P8715 and P 8110

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

P 10,206, P 8715 and P 8110. Jim Bouchard and I were flown to an alpine tarn north of the Eldridge Glacier terminus and hiked up to make the first ascents of two prominent peaks between the Eldridge and Buckskin Glaciers. (Both peaks appear on McKinley Quad A-l.) Pleasant 60° ice on the west face of the northwest peak of P 8715 (5½ miles east of P 10,206) led to ramps that skirted the south side. We continued on a stroll along a ridge-line moat to the top on the evening of August 14. On P 10,206, we wriggled through and under a glacier to gain the 2½-mile-long southeast ridge. Three knife-edged rope-lengths of atrocious argillite, followed by a graceful sinuous snow and ice ridge brought us to the top at 3:30 P.M. on August 16. On the descent we scampered up P 8110 (2 miles to the northeast), which rose above our high camp.

David Johnston

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