American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hunter, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Mount Hunter, North Face. Benoît Grison and I made a new route on the north face of Mount Hunter from June 24 to 29. On the first day we climbed the huge ice gully that cuts the left side of the face. It rises precipitously in a series of vertical steps. We bivouacked at its top at 10,500 feet. On June 25 we traversed up and right toward the center of the face. The ice was thin and brittle. On the third day we kept well to the left of the principal buttress. The mixed pitches were very difficult and subject to incessant snow slides. We bivouacked on the ridge top. We reached the summit on June 27. Our descent via the west ridge was dangerous because of bad weather.

Yves Tedeschi, Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne

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