American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, McKinley, Foraker, Hunter, Rooster Comb, P 11,300

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

McKinley, Foraker, Hunter, Rooster Comb, P 11,300. An expedition of the French Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne was led by Lieutenant Colonel Jean-Claude Marmier. They made an amazing number of climbs. The description of the Hunter climb is given below. The others follow: McKinley via Western Rib, June 8 to 18, by Marmier, E. Giot, Yves Tedeschi, Benoît Grison, E. Beilin, via West Buttress, June 14 to 18, by P. Royer, E. Gramond, and West Buttress-Muldrow Traverse, June 17 to 23, by H. Sachetat, L. Mailly, Philippe Renard; Foraker via southeast ridge, June 8 to 13, by Sachetat, Royer, Mailly, Renard, Gramond; Hunter via north face (noted below) and via west ridge, July 1–4, by Sachetat, Mailly, Renard; P 11,300 via south ridge, May 30 to June 1, by Sachetat, Mailly; and Rooster Comb via north face, May 30 to June 2, by Gramond, Grison. The Rooster Comb climb may have been the second ascent of the route. They climbed a difficult 2000-foot-high ice gully. The ice over the rock on the mixed sections was thin and often friable. The McKinley traverse was done in the remarkably short time of six days. We are grateful to Lieutenant Colonel Marmier for this information.

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