American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Mount Everest Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Mount Everest Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Joan Massons, Antoni Ricart, Nil Bohigas, Jordi Canals, Jordi Camprubí, Oscar Cadiach, Jo- sep María Durán, Lluís Gómez, Enric Lucas, Miquel Sánchez, Antoni Sors and me as leader. Our route was via the North Col, north and northeast ridges. We arrived at Base Camp on August 12. We set up Camps I, II, III, IV and V at 18,050, 19,700, 21,325, 22,950 and 24,950 feet between August 15 and September 5 in good weather. We returned to Base Camp to rest from September 6 to 13. The first summit attempt by Camprubí, Lucas, Gomez and Cadiach was driven back after two nights in Camp VI at 26,250 feet. They returned to Camp III on September 26. A second try from September 30 to October 5 was prevented by the weather from getting above Camp IV. The third attempt by Cadiach, Camprubí, Lucas and Bohigas reached a camp at 27,225 feet just below the northeast ridge but strong winds prevented movement on October 10. On the 11th and 12th, they battled the storm to descend to Camp III. With the camps battered by storms and the group exhausted, we gave up the expedition.

Conrad Blanch, Caixe de Barcelona, Spain

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