American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir from the South

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Tirich Mir from the South. Our expedition had as members Artur Hajzer, Rafal Cholda, Jerzy Mamica, Janusz Mikolajczyk, Ludwik Musiol, Andrzej Zielinski and me as leader. On July 24 we established Base Camp at 14,450 feet on the South Barum Glacier. On July 26 Camp I was placed at 17,550 feet. We planned to climb the original 1950 Norwegian route, but the snow conditions were dangerous and we decided to make a variation via the “S” Col (21,325 feet), where Camp II was established on August 2. On August 11 Cholda and Hajzer left Camp II and climbed by the Japanese route to the “Jankowski Terrace” (23,000 feet), where they bivouacked. Next day at five P.M. the summit (7706 meters, 25,283 feet) was reached—after 19 days activity on the mountain. The second summit attempt was stopped below the “S” Col because of a not serious avalanche accident. The new variation is not difficult, but its upper section, a 1000-foot-high ice gully below the “S” Col, is seriously exposed to avalanches.

Ryszard Warecki, Harcerski Klub Taternicki, Poland

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