American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Nanga Parbat. Our expedition was composed of Kive de Pablo, Mikel Martinez, I. Alvarez, L. Tapia and me as leader. We approached up the Diamir valley with 29 porters and established Base Camp on July 15 at 13,125 feet. We set up Camps I and II at 16,750 and 20,350 feet and climbed to 22,650 feet for acclimatization. On August 3 we left Camp II for the summit alpine-style, bivouacking at 22,300 feet and in the Bazhin Basin at 23,950 feet. From there de Pablo and I kept on to the summit, which we reached at four P.M. on August 5, following the Italian variant. We were all back in Base Camp on August 7 after dismantling Camps II and I. Our route was the traditional one on this side, the Kinshofer route.

José Luis Zuloaga, Bizkaiko Expedizioa, Spain

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