American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. We left Bunar Bridge on June 2 with 155 porters and got to Base Camp at 14,300 feet on June 5. On June 10 we began route-finding and preparing the route. Camp I was placed across the glacier at 17,100 feet. Above was a steep ice couloir. Camp II was set up on July 3 at 20,550 feet on the rock ridge, Camp III on the 18th, Camp IV on July 23 on the snowfield at 24,125 feet. Mamoru Taniguchi, Norio Nakanishi and Masashi Saeki left Camp IV on July 25 but took so much time in the deep snow that they could get only to the Bazhin Notch. On the 27th the same climbers made another summit attempt but were turned back by the weather. On the 29th four members set up a temporary Camp V at 25,750 feet. The third bid by Taniguchi and Nakanishi started on July 30. They bivouacked at 26,475 feet and reached the summit at seven A.M. on July 31. This was the first Japanese ascent of Nanga Parbat. We followed the 1962 route of Herrligkoffer. The other members were Takeyoshi Takatsuka, Naoyuki Saeki, Kensei Ojima, Shuko Sakai, Takao Ito, Osamu Tagaya, Toshiyuki Shimada, Tomoyuki Kawajiri, Kensuke Saeki, Dr. Ryuichi Tanabe and I as leader.

Shigeyoshi Kido, Toyama Mountaineering Federation, Japan

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