American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Karun Koh Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Karun Koh Attempt. Unclimbed Karun Koh (6977 meters, 22,891 feet) was attempted by German Dr. Karl Hub, Pakistanis Saad Tarek and Sidiqi and me. The peak lies north of the Shimshal valley. We began our approach June 24 from Murkhan, 12 miles north of Pasu on the Karakoram Highway. After two days we set up Base Camp at 15,750 feet on the Karun Koh Glacier. We saw a possible route on the southwest which has three rock towers at middle height and a narrow corniced ridge above. After reconnaissance and a load-carry, Hub developed pneumonia. He was in the hospital in Gilgit two days later and flew home to Munich the next day. I was back in Base Camp on July 4. Meanwhile and in the next days, much snow fell. I reached 17,725 feet with Tarek but we gave up because of avalanche danger and bad weather.

Robert Schauer. Österreichischer Alpenverein

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