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Asis, Pakistan, Sia Chhish, Batura Group

Sia Chhish, Batura Group. [This peak lies southwest of Hachindar Chhish.—Editor.] Our expedition was composed of Enrico De Luca, Giam- piero Di Federico, Eugenio Di Marzio, Sandro Pucci, Giuseppe Ricciuti and me as leader. From Gilgit we traveled to Boladas village by jeep. For two days we ascended the Shittinbar valley with porters and donkeys to reach Base Camp at 12,950 feet. From there we went up the eastern moraine, a crevassed slope, a 250-foot rock step, more easy glacier, a dangerous gully and more glacier to reach a col below Sia Chhish’s west face at 18,200 feet. After acclimatization and load carrying, we established camp on the col on July 18. We decided to climb both Sia Chhish and the 6000-meter (19,685-foot) peak opposite the col. On July 19 De Luca, Di Federico and I set off along the west spur to climb Sia Chhish alpine-style. At 20,000 feet we had to wait until the night chill would reduce the dangers of avalanches. We climbed in the night on difficult rock and ice of 60° to 70°. After halting again for three hours, we continued to a 22,800-foot col and then along the less difficult north ridge to the central and highest summit (7040 meters, 23,097 feet), which we reached at ten A.M. on July 20. We descended, rappelling from the high col. Meanwhile on July 20, Di Marzio, Ricciuti and Pucci climbed the 6000-meter peak, starting up the east ridge. This ridge ended on the face where they ascended 60° to 70° ice and rock, which was especially difficult in the last part.

Giorgio Mallucci, Club Alpino Italiano