American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Diran

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Diran. Our expedition made the third ascent of Diran (also called Minapin) above the Hunza valley in the northwest Karakoram. Base Camp was at 11,500 feet and Advance Base was placed four miles up the glacier at 12,800 feet on June 17. We tried unsuccessfully to ascend the unclimbed north ridge but had to give up because of bottomless powder snow. After placing Camp I at 16,100 feet on June 24, we continued alpine-style. We camped on June 27, 28 and 29 at 18,800, 20,675 and 22,475 feet. On June 30 Edi Furrer and I reached the summit (7273 meters, 23,862 feet). A day later, July 1, the other two members, Andreas Müller and Felix Waltert, got to the top. During the descent we were pinned by a severe storm, Furrer and I at 20,675 feet and Müller and Waltert at 22,475 feet. The latter two had their tent destroyed.

Ruth Steinmann, Schweizer Alpen Club

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