American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Disteghil Sar South, Disteghil Sar East and Yazghil Dome North

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Disteghil Sar South, Disteghil Sar East and Yazghil Dome North. My 14th expedition set off from Nagar on July 3 with 81 porters. We had to pay the porters 90 rupees (about $7) per day plus food and clothing. They moved very slowly. Instead of two-and-a-half days, it took four to Hispar, where we bought eggs, flour, chickens and potatoes at sky-high prices. We got to Base Camp at 14,925 feet on the Kunyang Glacier on July 10. Our first objective was Disteghil Sar South (also called Yazghil Dome South; Wala Hispar Peak 57), up which we followed the 1980 Polish route. (See A.A.J., 1981, page 299.) On July 13 ten climbers carried to Camp I at 16,750 feet. Above this camp we had to cross a crevassed area under a hanging glacier which discharged day and night. After snowfall on July 15 and 16, the weather remained magnificent for the rest of the month. On July 17 we found the route through the icefall and on the 18th placed Camp II at 19,025 feet. On the 21st we established Camp III in the col between Disteghil Sar East and Kunyang North at 20,850 feet. On July 23 Attilio Bianchetti, Graziano Ferrari, Filippo Sala and Luigi Rampini set up Camp IV at 22,650 feet in the col between Disteghil Sar East and Disteghil Sar South. The first three climbed Disteghil Sar South (7400 meters, 24,279 feet) on July 24; Rampini remained at Camp IV for the next five days. On July 26 Giorgio Corradini and Zefferino Moreschini climbed Disteghil Sar East (7700 meters, 25,263 feet). That same day Piero Botto and Tiziano Nannuzzi left Camp III and climbed past Camp IV to the top of Disteghil Sar South. On July 28 Cristiano Casolari slabbed around Disteghil Sar South to the col between it and Yazghil Dome North and continued up snow and difficult mixed terrain to complete the first ascent of Yazghil Dome North (7400 meters, 24,279 feet). That same day Dr. Aldo Poli and Rampini climbed to the Disteghil Sar South-Yazghil Dome North col and climbed Disteghil Sar South by its east face, a new route. Three peaks above Base Camp were also climbed: P 5050 (16,568 feet) by Giancarlo Calza and Marco Mairani, P 5030 (16,503 feet) by Claudio Benedetti and another P 5050 (16,568 feet) by Benedetti and Nannuzzi. The high camps were evacuated and the return from Base Camp began on July 31.

Arturo Bergamaschi, Club Alpino Italiano

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