Baintha Brakk II, First Ascent, Via Northwest Buttress

Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh
Author: The Editors. Climb Year: 1983. Publication Year: 1984.

image_4A Korean expedition led by Yoon Dae-pyo made the first ascent of Baintha Brakk II (Ogre II, 6,960m) by the northwest buttress. They established two camps on the glacier and one on the buttress. Rope was fixed between Camps 2 and 3. Lim Deok-yong and Yoo Han-gyu then climbed to 6,800m, where they bivouacked in a snow cave with minimal gear—no sleeping bags, just Gore-Tex Jackets and bivouac sacks. Next day, at 1:50 p.m. on July 16, 1983, the two reached the summit. Tragically, one of the expedition members was killed. A photograph of the route appeared in Bergsteiger, March 1984.

 

Editor's Note: This report has been updated (in 2023) from the original version published in AAJ 1984, with additional material and corrections provided by Kim Dong-soo, Korea.

 

 



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