American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Trango Tower Attempts

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Trango Tower Attempts. We were Ray Button, Geoff Gabites, Ian Jowett and I as leader. Our objective was the Nameless Trango Tower by the British route. We had two camps: Boulder Camp at 16,500 feet, established the day after reaching Base Camp in early July, and Snowpatch Camp at 18,000 feet, set up a couple of days later. A 15-day storm forced us to retreat. We began on the wall again on July 20 but heavily iced conditions made the going too slow and so, after a few rope-lengths, we changed our objective to the unclimbed west face of the Great Trango Tower. On the first day we climbed to bivouac at 18,000 feet. The next day we climbed quickly to 20,000 feet but were stopped by a dangerous windslab 650 feet from the top.

Graeme Dingle, New Zealand Alpine Club

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