American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Trango Towers, South Face of the Chateau

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Trango Towers, South Face of the Chateau. Erik Decamp, Robert Wainer and I made the ascent of the south face of the first Trango Tower (also called the Chateau), a climb of 4000 vertical feet and 50 rope-lengths of which 30 were above UIAA Grade V. We made three bivouacs and kept primarily to free climbing. The summit of the south shoulder was at 5200 meters (17,061 feet). The rock was interesting but somewhat rotten. We were in the field in May and June. During our three weeks at Base Camp we made a photographic record of the Biaho, Trango, Cathedral and Lobsang groups.

Patrick Cordier, Club Alpin Français

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