Broad Peak, Women’s Expedition. Anna Czerwinska* and Krystyna Palmowska* were the entire Polish women’s expedition to Broad Peak. These two set up Base Camp, Camp I and Camp II at 5000, 5800 and 6350 meters on May 24, 26 and June 1 with no porter help. A week later they moved Camp II to 6550 meters. The doubtful weather got worse and 20 inches of snow fell. Wind destroyed both high camps, which had to be set up again. After a first futile effort, on June 14 they established Camp III at 7100 meters. The first summit attempt failed at 7700 meters in high winds, as did the second on June 24 because of deep snow. Meanwhile, the English and then the Swiss followed, using their tracks. On June 29 the two climbed from Base Camp to Camp III (a vertical rise of nearly 7000 feet!). They left camp at 7:30 A.M. on June 30, were at the col at one P.M. Anna Czerwinska turned back halfway between the false and main summits. Krystyna Palmowska went ahead and reached the summit (8047 meters, 26,400 feet) at 3:30. The weather was clear but cold and windy. They were back in Base Camp the next day. Although women have climbed eight of the 8000ers, this is the first “ladies-only” ascent of one of the world’s 14 highest peaks. The Swiss reached the summit on the same day as Palmowska.
Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland
* Awarded grants from the Vera Watson-Alison Chadwick Onyszkiewicz Fund of the American Alpine Club.