American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak Attempt and Ascent of P 6393

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Broad Peak Attempt and Ascent of P 6393. Gerard van Sprang, liaison officer Haider Ali Khan and I arrived at Base Camp on June 20. On June 25 we two Netherlanders climbed P 6393 (20,975 feet). This peak lies east of the Godwin Austen Glacier between the Savoia and Khalkhal Glaciers. We reached the east ridge from the south from the Khalkhal Glacier and then climbed along that ridge to the summit in an 18-hour day. We then attempted Broad Peak by the normal route. We got to the foresummit, about 150 feet below the summit on July 1 but were turned back by bad weather. We tried afterwards twice more but were forced to return because of very bad weather. On July 19 we had to start out from Base Camp.

Ronald Naar, Koninklijke Nederlandse Alpen Vereniging

* Awarded grants from the Vera Watson-Alison Chadwick Onyszkiewicz Fund of the American Alpine Club.

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