American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Chogolisa, Northwest Spur

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Chogolisa, Northwest Spur. In mid-May Adi Fischer, Hubert Wendlinger, Ludwig Nüssl, Georg Aicher, Heinz Fischer and I as leader drove from Rawalpindi to Skardu. Our approach up the Baltoro Glacier went according to plan, though we were snowed in at Concordia for three days. On June 5 we set up Base Camp at 16,075 feet on the right side of the Vigne Glacier. Advance Base was at 18,375 feet directly below the steep northwest flank of Chogolisa, some eight miles above Base Camp. Our short skis and climbing skins were very useful. We fixed rope on the upper part of the spur. On June 13 Adi Fischer, Wendlinger and I set out alpine-style up the spur. We bivouacked below the summit trapezoid at 22,300 feet on a small plateau. After a cold and uncomfortable night, we climbed the next day steeply up between séracs and debris. With a great expenditure of effort, we reached the summit (7665 meters, 25,148 feet) at seven P.M. We were rewarded with a gorgeous view of Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, K2, the Gasherbrums and into China. This was the third ascent of the peak and by a new route. We descended to our bivouac and to Base Camp the next day. The other three were prevented from a summit attempt by bad weather and deep new snow. We skied up two beautiful unclimbed 6000ers close to Base Camp in short periods of good weather. We returned to Skardu in only six days.

Georg Brosig, Deutscher Alpenverein

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