American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Gasherburm II, Gasherbrum I ( Hidden Peak) and Broad Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) and Broad Peak. We arrived at Base Camp at the foot of Gasherbrum II on May 18 after a 12-day approach. On May 22 we set up a camp on the plateau at 19,350 feet between Gasherbrums II and III but the weather remained bad until June 12. On June 12 Fredi Graf, Fredi Meyer, Marcel Rüedi, Dölf Fröhlich and Stefan Wömer left for our high camp. On the 13th they bivouacked at 21,325 feet while a second group, Gerard Spicher, Pierre Morand, Jean-Claude Sonnenwyl and I climbed to the high camp. On the 14th I left very early and caught up to the first group. In deep snow we climbed to bivouac at 24,275 feet. On the 15th Fröhlich had to descend to Base Camp but Sonnenwyl had joined us and we six climbed to the summit of Gasherbrum II (8035 meters, 26,360 feet). In bad weather the next day all returned to Base Camp. On June 21 Rüedi and I left Base Camp for Gäsherbrum I (Hidden Peak) and bivouacked at 21,625 feet in the north col. On the 22nd we climbed to 23,300 feet by a new variant on the north buttress. We reached the summit of Gasherbrum I (8068 meters, 26,470 feet) on June 23. As we descended to Base Camp on the 24th, Morand and Sonnenwyl, who had been a day behind us, reached the same summit by the same route. On June 28 Rüedi, Wörner, Graf, Fröhlich and I left for Broad Peak Base Camp, which we got to the next morning. On June 30 we climbed the normal route to 23,625 feet, a vertical rise of 7500 feet, where we bivouacked. On June 31 we reached the summit of Broad Peak (8047 meters, 26,400 feet). That same day I descended to Base Camp, which the rest reached the next day. Sonnenwyl and Morand reached the summit on July 2.

Erhard Loretan, Club Alpin Suisse

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