American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Nalla, Lahul

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Miyar Nalla, Lahul. Susan Brener, Barry Owen and I were in the Miyar Nalla area in September. After three days’ walking from Udaipur, we reached the glacier which leads up to the Kangla Jot. As we had only a short time at our disposal, we took the first tributary glacier to the right a few miles above the snout, opposite the place where Palphu is marked on the Himachal Pradesh trekking map. We did not know of any others who had been up our side glacier but we found ugly litter left by a Japanese party. The side glacier forks after a few miles. We had a sortie up the icefalls of the direct continuation but eventually opted for the left fork, which we followed in a northerly direction to a camp in a snow bowl at 17,300 feet. From there an easy glacier led up to a 19,000-foot plateau on the main divide between Lahul and Zanskar. On September 7 we climbed to the plateau and ascended a very pleasant rock peak of 20,000 feet. We then traversed the ridge over a sharp subsidiary pinnacle before making an awkward descent to our snow bowl. On September 9 Owen and I climbed an elegant snow-and-ice peak of 20,000 feet by a varied and devious line. Again we traversed the mountain and had good views of the second large tributary glacier of the main Miyar Nalla. After five days at our top camp we descended and reached Udaipur 17 days after we had left it.

Geoffrey Cohen, Scottish Mountaineering Club

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.