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Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Mulkila 6 (M6), North Face, Lahul

Mulkila 6 (M6), North Face, Lahul. Our Franco-Swiss expedition consisted of Jean-Jacques Asper, O. Paulin and me. After a seven-day approach, by way of Manali, Rothang Pass, Khoksar, Kyelang, Darcha and Yotse, we reached Base Camp on the Mulkila Glacier at 14,100 feet. Camp I was on the glacier at 16,600 feet and Camp II at 18,350 feet at the foot of the north face. We climbed alpine-style for two days. Paulin and I reached the summit (6279 meters, 20,600 feet) on June 23. The north face of M6 is a 2000-foot-high ice-and-snow wall which averages 60° and has one 75° pitch. It was the first ascent of the face and the third of the peak.

AndrÉ Zagdoun, Club Alpin Français