Thalay Sagar, Northeast Buttress. A seven-man Polish-Norwegian team set up Base Camp at 4700 meters on August 1. Two members dropped out because of sickness. The remaining five, Poles Janusz Skorek and Andrezej Czok and Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth, Havard Nesheim and Frode Guldal, placed camps at 5400 and 5900 meters before setting out alpine-style on August 16 from the 5900-meter col between Thalay Sagar and Bhrigupanth. They climbed the difficult 1000-meter-high northeast buttress (UIAA V + to VI, Al) in 7½ days. The lower section called for technical rock climbing, while the middle section, including a couloir, was mixed terrain. The most difficult was the rock band of the summit cone. They fixed rope, bivouacking two nights at 6150 meters, three nights in a great cavern at 6250 meters and two nights at 6550 meters. The weather was adverse, with rain, snowfall and wind. Despite injury in a fall by Skorek on August 20, the five reached the summit (6919 meters, 22,700 feet) on August 23 and rappelled back to 6550 meters. Ten rappels on August 24 brought them to the foot of the face. This was a new route and the second ascent of the peak. Meanwhile Ragnhild Doseth, Elzbieta Skorek and Ludwik Wilczynski reached the north ridge of Bhrigupanth near the summit (6777 meters, 22,234 feet).
Jó zef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland