Kharchakund, Northeast Face. After a three-day approach, we set up camp at the foot of Kharchakund’s north ridge. Our goal was to make the second ascent of the peak by a new route, the northeast face. The peak was first ascended by Japanese in 1980 by the west ridge. The 6500-foot-high northeast face, which was up to 65° steep, was climbed alpine-style by Balthasar Pichler and me. We bivouacked at 19,700 feet and reached the summit (6612 meters, 21,726 feet) the next day, August 22 at two P.M. We descended the west ridge. The next day Walter Pfeffer and Edi Lindenthaler climbed the west ridge from a camp at 19,000 feet. On August 24 Hansjörg Lindenthaler and Blas Retteneg- ger also reached the summit by the west ridge.

Sepp Inhöger, österreichischer Alpenverein