American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Garhwal, Kedarnath Dome

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Kedarnath Dome. Our group was made up of Italian, French and Swiss climbers. We aimed to climb Kedarnath Dome on skis by the normal route, the northwest face. We set up Base Camp at Tapovan on September 12. After two days for acclimatization we left for Advance Base in a small meadow behind the left moraine of the Kirti Glacier at 15,700 feet. We made a gradual ascent on snow to Camp I at 18,700 feet and occupied it on September 15. Camp II was placed at 20,500 feet on the 19th above some crevasses and potential avalanche danger. The first summit climb was made on September 22 by Alberto Re, Alberto Pedretti, Enzo Ronzoni and Sergio Antoniazzi in five hours from Camp II. Five days of heavy snowfall stopped the rest of the team until on October 2 Pierre Bisson, Sabine de Bourmont, Michèle Monnier and I reached the summit. There was avalanche danger but we climbed quickly and the ski descent in powder snow was fantastic.

Renato Moro, Club Alpino Italiano

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