American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, India—Garhwal, Bhagirathi II and Satopanth

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Bhagirathi II and Satopanth. Three Japanese, Akira Suzuki, Motomu Omiya and Hiroto Hisamatsu set up Base Camp at Nandanban at 14,700 feet on May 6, Advance Base at 16,075 feet and Camp I at 17,225 feet. After an attempt at a new route on Bhagirathi II’s east face, which failed at 20,000 feet in a snowstorm, they moved Camp I to 17,550 feet. On May 15 they set out from there, reached the north ridge at 21,150 feet and got to the summit (6512 meters, 21,365 feet) at 1:50 P.M. They then moved toward Satopanth. From a 17,050-foot camp they climbed the northwest ridge to a 20,000-foot col on May 20. The next day they fought their way through deep snow and got to 22,650 feet. On May 22 they got to a western summit of 7045 meters (23,113 feet) early in the morning. The slightly higher main summit looked discouragingly far, the weather was threatening and so they decided to descend from there.

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