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Asia, India—Garhwal, Satopanth and Shivling

Satopanth and Shivling. A Japanese expedition of eleven led by Hisao Seki set up Base Camp at Nandanban on July 31. They then established Advance Base, Camps I, II and III at 15,900, 16,750, 19,000 and 20,675 feet on August 6,7, 12 and 17 respectively. After a rest, Seki, Masaki Nakao and Yuetsu Endo were back at Camp III on the northern side of Satopanth. They reached the summit on August 23. On the 24th two men, Kenji Ohama and Masami Yam- agata, and four women, Kiyoko Miyake, Yoko Mihara, Emiko Toida and Yu- suko Seki, climbed to the summit. Setting up a second Base Camp at Tapovan, they then turned to Shivling, where one group climbed the south face while a second unsuccessfully attempted the west ridge. Climbing capsule-fashion, Na- kao, Ohama and Yamagata crossed a col on the east ridge and bivouacked on a hanging glacier to avoid rotten rock below. On September 3 they climbed snow to tent at 18,050 feet. On September 4, 5, 6 and 7 they bivouacked at 18,375, 18,775, 19,350 and 20,000 feet. On the 8th they fixed rope on five pitches to the summit ridge. On September 9 they climbed, removing fixed ropes and reached the summit (6543 meters, 21,467 feet) late in the afternoon. They bivouacked in the col between the main and southwest peaks. The next day they descended the west ridge to Camp II of the other group. Meanwhile the other climbers had been on the west ridge. They pitched Camp I at 16,600 feet where the west ridge splits. Camps II and III were at 17,900 and 19,200 feet. Early on September 6 an avalanche hit Camp III, injuring a climber. Seki and Endo set out for the summit but soon turned back, finding the conditions dangerous. Seki took a 50-foot fall when a cornice collapsed. More details and excellent photographs appear in Iwa To Yuki, N° 99, December 1983.