American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Garhwal, Satopanth, Northeast Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Satopanth, Northeast Ridge. Our German Alpine Club expedition had twelve Germans, two Swiss and three South Tiroleans under my leadership. From Base Camp at Nandanban at 14,450 feet, we placed Advance Base on May 27 at 16,075 feet in the Vasuki valley. We established Camp I on the 30th at 17,725 feet just below the great crevasse zone on the northern side of Satopanth. From there we crossed the icefall and steep slopes to the northeast col, where we set up Camp II on June 4 at 19,700 feet. The next steep and narrow ridge was fixed with 1000 feet of rope. On June 5 five of us and a Sherpa started upwards. Beyond the ridge we climbed a steep slope to 22,475 feet where a strong wind forced us to quit. On June 10, South Tirolean Christian Gasser and I reached the summit after eight hours in a strong wind. We removed the fixed ropes on the descent.

Hermann Tauber, South Tirol, Italy

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