American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri VI, Southwest Buttress

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Dhaulagiri VI, Southwest Buttress. On October 9 Dan Griffith, Peter Carter, Albi Sole and I reached the summit of Dhaulagiri VI (7268 meters, 23,846 feet), via a new route on the southwest buttress. The ascent was made alpine-style in six days from Base Camp at 4100 meters. The fifth member, Mike Down, had performed strongly during the acclimatization phase, but he opted out of the final push because of an old injury. The route, reached after a lengthy glacier approach, followed an elegant and objectively safe ice buttress. The climbing was exclusively in deep snow or on alpine ice. The weather was quite unsettled this fall with heavy snowfall, and we were fortunate to sneak the climb in between storms. A more complete report will appear in the Canadian Alpine Journal 1984.

Robert Rohn, Alpine Club of Canada

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