American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Dhaulagiri Attempt. Our expedition was composed of James Merel, Yves Tedeschi, Jean Clauzier, Dr. Sylvie Romin, Jacques Maurin, Norbert Silvin and me as leader. Originally we had permission for the southwest buttress of Dhaulagiri but we changed it for either the north face or the northwest ridge. However after observing the unclimbed northwest ridge, which was difficult and dangerous for the first 3500 feet, we abandoned it in favor of an alpine-style attempt on the Pear Route on the north face. This route was finally climbed by Japanese in October of 1982 with siege tactics. It is not hard up to 22,000 feet, but then it has great difficulties around 25,000 feet. We got only to 19,750 feet because of bad weather and some strategic errors. There was very heavy snowfall in October 1983.

Yves Astier, Club Alpin Français

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