American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Tilitso, Winter Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Tilitso, Winter Ascent. A four-man team from South Korea had permission for Tilitso’s northwest ridge, but they found the route dangerous and switched to the northeast ridge. All four climbed together and bivouacked for four nights, one without a tent. On December 10, Kim Yong-Un fell sick at 22,300 feet. The leader, Lee Yong-Ho, descended with him while the other two continued on.

Jong Bon-Wan and Yoon Dae-Pyu reached the summit (7134 meters, 23,405 feet) at 10:30 A.M. on December 11. On the way down they bivouacked twice. This is the second winter ascent of Tilitso and the first by a foreign team.

Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club

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