Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome). Our expedition, led by Rudi Mayr had 16 members, most of them high-altitude trekkers with no serious ambition for the summit (7193meters, 23,600 feet). The mountain was approached from the south and Base Camp was established on October 14 at 14,450 feet. Further progress was delayed due to very deep snow and daily avalanches particularly in the dangerous area between 16,400 and 19,700 feet. On October 22, at four A.M. Rudi Mayr, Friedl Kleissl, Ang-Nima Sherpa, Gyaltzen Sherpa and I left Camp II at 19,000 feet. The ascent was first through a 1000-foot-high ice gully and then over ice slopes to the ridge between Glacier Dome and Rock Noir.* Following the long snow slopes to the east, we reached the summit at 4:30 P.M. Since I stayed on the summit for a longer time, I had to descend alone. Due to hallucinations and later to darkness, I lost the track and had to bivouac. On the next day I also got into an avalanche but finally escaped with some frostbitten toes. No further attempts on the summit were made.

Oswald Ölz, Österreichischer Alpenverein