American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Himal Chuli Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Himal Chuli Attempt. A six-man Polish expedition led by Tadeusz Piotrowski attempted Himal Chuli (7893 meters, 25,895 feet) by its unclimbed south ridge. The porters quit on April 12 and so the march-in took three weeks. Base Camp was established at 13,375 feet on April 30. The route started up a 6500-foot-high ice wall, which faces the west. On May 3 and 6 the team placed Camps I and II at 17,225 and 20,350 feet. Above Camp II the face became difficult; the crux pitches were over 60° and some 1000 meters of rope were fixed. On May 13 Camp III was set up at 23,450 feet near the crest of the south ridge. From May 18 to 21 Piotrowski and Andrzej Bielun made a summit attempt. They reached 25,100 feet but were turned back by the difficulty and bad weather. Generally the weather was poor, cloudy and windy and it snowed every day.

Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

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