American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Chamar Attempt and Tragedy, Sringi Himal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Chamar Attempt and Tragedy, Sringi Himal. A joint expedition of seven Japanese and three Nepalese led by Yoshiharu Miyashiro attempted the east or northeast ridge of Chamar (7177 meters, 23,580 feet), the route successfully climbed by New Zealanders in 1953. They established three high camps. The site for Camp IV at 22,300 feet had been reached before the summit attempt and although loads had been dumped there, the camp was never made. The summit assault party, Koichi Akao, Mitsuzu Harada, Mingma Tshering Sherpa and Dorje Sherpa, reached a high point of about 23,000 feet on May 23 and then turned back because the route to the top was too long and the snow too deep. The leader called off the expedition. The next day, May 24, it was discovered that the two tents of Camp II and one of the members had disappeared. The tents were dug out of the deep snow and Koichi Ikari was found dead, apparently the victim of an avalanche.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley

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