American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Ganesh II Tragedy

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Ganesh II Tragedy. A nine-man Polish expedition led by Janusz Majer attempted the dangerous southwest face of Ganesh II. After a nine-day approach, on October 7 they got to Base Camp at 14,100 feet. Because of objective dangers, they decided to climb rapidly, alpine-style. On October 18, Andrzej Hartman, Ryszard Pawlowski and Krzysztof Wielicki set out up the right side of the face. After six days of difficult climbing up to UIAA V and 55° slopes, on October 23 they got to a big tower on the southeast ridge at 22,300 feet, 1000 feet below the summit. Having used up their technical gear, they regretfully started to descend. On the third rappel, Hartman’s dead-man anchor pulled out and he plunged with both ropes, 6500 feet to his death. Pawlowski waited there, without food while Wielicki made a daring solo descent. He melted a liter of water each day in his sleeping bag. On October 24 his companions set out on his rescue. It took three days to reach him. They descended in 16 hours.

JÖZEF Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

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