American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Memphis Mountaineers, Inc.

  • Club Activities
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  • Publication Year: 1984

Kusum Kanguru East, Northeast Ridge. Guy Neithardt, Swiss, and Andrew Wielochowski, British, made the first ascent of the northeast ridge of Kusum Känguru East and the fifth ascent of the summit on September 16. The two other members, Richard Backus, Canadian, and I, Welsh, twice reached 20,000 feet at the base of the summit pyramid of the northeast ridge. The climb was completed alpine-style in a one-week absence from Base Camp. Base Camp was established on September 5 at 14,050 feet at the snout of the Kyashar Glacier. It was reached in two days from Monjo, a small village two-hour’s walk north of Namche Bazar. The route had six distinct sections. First, we followed the southeast moraine of the Kyashar Glacier to a steep ascent toward the col between Kusum Kanguru and Charpati. We bivouacked on September 12 at 17,000 feet. Second, we climbed the small but complex glacier descending from the col to a flat basin below the col. Third, we ascended an 800-foot 45° snow rib to the col with 650 feet of fixed rope. We camped in the col at 18,550 feet. Fourth, the northeast ridge presented rock-and-ice difficulties where we first followed ledges on the southeast and then in the centre of the ridge. Fifth, the steep face leading to the top of the northeast buttress (20,400 feet) provided more difficulties and complex route-finding on loose rock and variable snow.

Sixth, the knife-edged snow ridge was followed to the east summit (6356 meters, 20,854 feet).

David Hopkins, Association of British Mountain Guides and A.A.C.

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