American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Pumori

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Pumori. Craig Linford, Dave and Dianna Dailey, Paul Stevenson and I were able to make a new route on the northeast ridge of Pumori, but it took longer than we had time for and so we did not make the summit. We did a great deal of technical water-ice climbing and scared ourselves enough to make the trip worth the time and trouble. Linford and I reached 21,100 feet on April 29. Our route was to the right of the new one put up by Bridwell and Gillette. Having reached Base Camp at 17,000 feet on April 17, we initiated climbing on the 19th, almost entirely on 40° to 55° water ice. Avalanches were a constant, daily threat. The weather was variable with snow every third day. No Sherpa support was used to carry loads. The attempt was alpine style with the exception of several fixed lines to aid in carrying loads. We had only one high camp and would have placed another at the high point of the ridge if we had continued to the summit. We left Base Camp on May 3.

Donald D. McIntyre

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