American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Ama Dablam. Our expedition was composed of Hans Penz, Dr. Theo Lyu- banowitsch, Stefan Krismer, Gemot Pollhammer and me as leader. We placed Base Camp on the edge of the moraine below the west face of Ama Dablam at 14,925 feet. On April 4 we set up Camp I at 16,550 feet and on April 6, Camp II at 18,700 feet at the beginning of the southwest ridge (the most usual route). On April 8 we fixed rope on the jagged granite ridge to where it rises steeply toward the summit. Camp III was placed on April 11 on the prominent black tower at 19,700 feet. After several days of snowfall, Krismer and I reached the summit on April 21 at 7:30 P.M. in glorious weather and with good ice. We used fixed ropes from previous parties. We bivouacked on top in a snow cave during a cold, starry night. This was the first Austrian ascent, the ninth successful expedition and the 21st rope to reach the top. Unfortunately the cold, lack of oxygen and liquids and too tight boots gave me third-degree frostbite and I have lost seven toes.

Arthur Haid, Österreichischer Alpenverein

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