American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, P 6730 and Nau Lekh

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

P 6730 and Nau Lekh. Our expedition went in seven days from Luklha via the Hinku valley to the Hunku valley. Setting out from 16,400 feet in the Hunku on October 21, Armin Rauter, Karl Brandstätter, Peter Breitegger, Sepp Egarter, Volker Klammer, Walter Lackner, Fritz Leitner, Toni Lindermuth, Reinhold Sepperer and I climbed Nau Lekh (6358 meters, 20,859 feet) in nine hours. We ascended the west ridge in deep snow and great cold. We then moved Base Camp to the Seto Pokhari (lake) at 16,550 feet. We set up Camp I on October 23 at 18,375 feet at the foot of P 6730*. There were two routes taken to Camp II at 20,350 feet on the southwest ridge: the direct ridge with 55° ice and Grade III and IV rock or an easier line which ascended a rock ramp on the right side of the ridge. Camp II was established on October 25. On the 28th a summit attempt failed 500 feet from the summit in — 30° C temperatures and strong wind. On October 29 Egarter and Klammer completed the first ascent of P 6730 (22,080 feet). The Sherpas suggest that Phurba Seto Himal is the name of the peak. On the seven-day return to Luklha, a sick climber had to be carried by the Sherpas over the 19,000-foot Amphu Labtsa Pass.

Karl. Pallasmann, M.D., Österreichischer Alpenverein

*There is no doubt which peak this is. It lies four miles due south of Baruntse. In Erwin Schneider’s excellent map, Khumbu Himal, it is given an altitude of 6670 meters. Other maps give 6570 meters. The latest Nepalese altitude is given as 6730 meters.

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