American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Kangchungtse (Makalu II) and Baruntse North

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Kangchungtse (Makalu II) and Baruntse North. After a 15-day approach up the Arun valley, we established Base Camp on September 9 at 17,725 feet at the junction of the Chago and Barun Glaciers, equidistant from our two objectives. The members of our light expedition were Philippe Carrière, Guy Chaléat, Dr. Monique Faure, Dr. Christine Janin, Georges Missillier and I as leader. Lingering remnants of the monsoon obliged us to make several attempts on the southwest face of Kangchungtse, the normal route, before all six of us reached the summit (7678 meters, 25,190 feet) on September 28 in perfect weather. Optimistically, after two rest days, we attacked the northeast ridge of Baruntse. Again bad weather drove us back several times. Four ropes were fixed on the first part of the ridge, which varied from 60° to 80°. Snowfalls built up wind- slabs. Finally, good but windy weather began on October 15. We left camp at the foot of the ridge at midnight. At eight A.M. of the 15th, all six of us were on the north summit (7057 meters, 23,153 feet). The wind, enormous cornices and windslabs disuaded us from going on to the main summit.

Frédéric Faure, Club Alpin Français

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.