American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Bhutan, Jichu Drake Attempt and Sepchu Kang

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Jichu Drake Attempt and Sepchu Kang. Our women’s expedition went as the first mountaineering expedition to Bhutan on April 16. We had intended to climb the east ridge of Jichu Drake (previously incorrectly identified* as Tsherim Kang). We set out from Paro on April 21 and traveled through Shana, Soithangthanka and Jangothang to Base Camp on a beautiful lake at 14,100 feet on April 30. We made Camps I, II and III at 15,100, 16,750 and 17,050 feet on May 1, 3 and 10 respectively. Above, the route was so steep and difficult that we gave up the attempt on May 14. Fortunately we were given permission to climb Sepchu Kang (5200 meters, 17,061 feet) near Shodo. On May 20 and 21 nine Japanese and four Bhutanese reached the summit.

Junko Tabei, Japanese Alpine Club

* There still seems to be considerable question as to the names of these peaks.—Editor.

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