American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Antarctica, Mawson Peak Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Mawson Peak Attempt. Our Austrian expedition was composed of Dr. Walter Flor, Werner Hölzl, Leopold Krenn and me as leader. We were joined in Australia by Peter Hardie. We had hoped to climb ice-armored Mawson Peak from the north. On January 4 we sailed in the former whaler, Cheynes II, from Albany, West Australia and landed on February 5 in Mechanics Bay. Stormy weather kept us from much progress on the first two days. On the third we ascended to 4825 feet. On February 9 we climbed technically difficult ice in very warm weather. Thawing caused avalanche threats and prevented our reaching the summit. During a bivouac that night the weather turned foul without becoming colder and we had to withdraw to our 4825-foot camp. The weather did not improve. Our ship could not anchor and had to keep using its limited oil while standing off the coast. We were forced to begin our return on the 12th, reached the coast in terrible weather on the 14th but were prevented by high seas from reboarding until the 17th. The route we tried is beautiful and direct.

Bruno Klausbruckner, Österreichische Himalayagesellschaft

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