American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Chilean—Argentine Patagonia, Fitz Roy, Aguja Guillaumet, Southeast Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Fitz Roy, Aguja Guillaumet, Southeast Face. Three days after their arrival in the national park, on December 2 Daniel Anker and Thomas Wüschner climbed to the summit of Fitz Roy by the American route, the southwest ridge. On December 7 Anker soloed Cerro Eléctrico Oeste. On the 8th Anker and Wiischner climbed the southeast face of the Aguja Guillaumet, which they believe is a new route. The ice couloir was up to 80°. On December 14 Anker and Wüschner completed a six-day ascent of the Maestri route of Cerro Torre, the seventh ascent of the peak. During this period, bad weather effectively allowed movement on only two days. Anker and Wüschner went on to central Argentina and climbed Aconcagua’s south face by the French route with the Messner exit. They rejected the Yugoslav route since it was swept by falling ice.

Vojslav Arko, Club Andino Bariloche

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