American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Condoriri, Southeast Face, Direct, Cordillera Real, 1981

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Condoriri, Southeast Face, Direct, Cordillera Real, 1981. A possibly new route on Condoriri was accomplished by Ecuadorians R. López, M. Moreno, R. Navarrete, I. Rojas and M. Suárez, who placed a base camp near Condoriri Lake and on June 16, 1981 climbed up the rocks above the lake to establish a high camp at 17,000 feet. The next day they climbed Condiriri up the center of the southeast face, a route wholly different to the one opened in 1967 by Italians, who had climbed keeping to the east ridge. They may have followed the line of Daniel and Stettner of 1980. The wall itself took four hours to climb. Other peaks ascended were Nevado de Fabulosa (improperly called Pequeño Alpamayo) and Tarija. An attempt to climb Illampu by its southeast ridge failed. The Ecuadorians placed a camp at 18,700 feet under the gap between Illampu and the Yacuma needles. At 19,700 feet they had to abandon the attempt at the foot of a 400-foot-high wall of smooth granite. In June 1982 they returned and climbed Illampu by the original Austrian-German 1928 route. R. López, R. Martínez, M. Moreno, R. Navarrete, I. Rojas, M. Serran and M. Suárez reached the summit.

Evelio Echevarría

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